Compression values for 1.4TSI CAXA

[maybeanothergolf]

Hi everyone, I'm doing a last resort "is it a goner" kind of thing on my Golf with the above mentioned engine. I wonder if anyone knows what the expected compression range is I can expect? I don't even have a compression gauge yet but I will get one and would like to know what the "normal" is before I make any assumptions.
I'd appreciate any inputs as I'm at the end of my tether with my car at the moment. XoXo.

[maybeanothergolf]

Anyone? I'm just looking for a known good value here please...?

[Ashveer03]

What issue are u trying to diagnose?

According to this forum, vw spec says 10-15bar.
https://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/forum ... hp?t=23097

Generally the difference between cylinders must be within 5% or so.

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[maybeanothergolf]

What issue are u trying to diagnose?

According to this forum, vw spec says 10-15bar.
https://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/forum ... hp?t=23097

Generally the difference between cylinders must be within 5% or so.

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Cool thanks for your reply. I'm trying to do an objective assement of the condition of the motor in my poor car. It's once again driving like crap and I've frankly had it. Given new car prices however I'm trying to do a realistic assessment of whether all hope is lost or whether I can continue the horror and suffering of owning this #$#@$ car. Sorry for my negative attitude but thank you for your reply I do appreciate it.

[maybeanothergolf]

What issue are u trying to diagnose?

According to this forum, vw spec says 10-15bar.
https://www.sciroccocentral.co.uk/forum ... hp?t=23097

Generally the difference between cylinders must be within 5% or so.

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PS since you asked I've had my Golf for 12 years. It was incredible for the first 2. Since the **** with the turbo started and VW's utter refusal to fix any of it, and me, last year finally taking it to a place here who for only fiteen thousand of my ZAR re conditioned the turbo, which was then OK for about 3 months until all the **** started again. I am diagnosing the problem of having a piece of **** golf TSI , but being too poor to do anyting about it.

[Ashveer03]

That sucks man. Maybe post the issues u have with it, the guys here will help with diagnosing and advice.

Smaller Tsi engines seem to be quite troublesome. I personally stay clear of them, heard alot of horror stories with oil consumption and piston failures (Mk7). There are some threads here on that, not sure if it applies to the Mk6 though.

Sometimes it's best to weigh Ur options whether it's worth repairing or replacing with an import.

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[maybeanothergolf]

That sucks man. Maybe post the issues u have with it, the guys here will help with diagnosing and advice.

Smaller Tsi engines seem to be quite troublesome. I personally stay clear of them, heard alot of horror stories with oil consumption and piston failures (Mk7). There are some threads here on that, not sure if it applies to the Mk6 though.

Sometimes it's best to weigh Ur options whether it's worth repairing or replacing with an import.

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Oddly enough zero oil usage, I watch it like a hawk. Yeah look it wasn't my choice , and now a long time down the line I'm stuck in our fantastic new economy where a toyota corrola is a R500K car.

[maybeanothergolf]

Also I've taken it off some sweet jumps. I just wish it didnt have such a **** engine

[maybeanothergolf]

Thanks but I doubt anyone can help, I've been trying for literally 10 years.

[n.gov3]

From what I recall, that particular 1.4 TSI engine was not great at all. Whether it was related to poor fuel quality or whatever. I always steered clear of it.

[maybeanothergolf]

Yep I think it was a good idea at the time. Everything above being said It's still the car I'm stuck with due to the unique economic situations we all find ourselves in, so I have to make the best of it... The positives is it doesn't use oil, it's never let me down at all and *when* it works properly it's actually quite fun. Also I don't know but given alternatives at many hundreds of thousands for a 1.5 with a CVT I'll stick with my Golf, crappy engine and all...

[maybeanothergolf]

I guess what I'm saying is all in all it's still a Golf 6, running proper michelins at least when I corner hard I know I won't end up in the bushes... So I humbly step back and say thanks for what I have at least.

[maybeanothergolf]

That sucks man. Maybe post the issues u have with it, the guys here will help with diagnosing and advice.

Smaller Tsi engines seem to be quite troublesome. I personally stay clear of them, heard alot of horror stories with oil consumption and piston failures (Mk7). There are some threads here on that, not sure if it applies to the Mk6 though.

Sometimes it's best to weigh Ur options whether it's worth repairing or replacing with an import.

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Have you or anyone had any experience with erWin? I'm looking to sign up for an hour or so to get service data and stuff for my car. I need things like the coil pack expected resistence values and all those kinds of things. I think the key to me servicing my own car from here one is having the right service info and all the specs and stuff, which is very hit and miss. I'm happy to pay for erWin if I can get all of this data, but I don't know if that's what it is? I don't like wasting moneys...

Any insight would be much appreciated.

[Ashveer03]

Unfortunately I haven't used it and don't personally know of anybody who has.

While browsing through forums, I do come across people getting info from there.

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[maybeanothergolf]

Unfortunately I haven't used it and don't personally know of anybody who has.

While browsing through forums, I do come across people getting info from there.

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Cool thank you, keep well!

[maybeanothergolf]

Unfortunately I haven't used it and don't personally know of anybody who has.

While browsing through forums, I do come across people getting info from there.

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For example I pulled the plugs this avie and the gaps were between 0.83 and 0.85mm. How do I know what they're supposed to be? Is this lack of information and specs or things normal? Google the new plugs, no mention of what the factory gaps are, and google of what the spark gap should be for golf 1.so and so blah sends you only to sites that want to sell me spark plugs.
I wonder if the service business keeps this information proprietary or am I absolutely over thinking things and should just go with it....

[Ashveer03]

If u don't have correct info, u need to work around it.
For example, plug gaps. Look for the OEM part number, for a cax it is, 03c905601a.
Google the part number, u will find OEM plugs with some technical info.
The gap should be 0.8mm.

However, as stated by NGK, u should avoid gapping precious metal electrodes (iridium / platinum) as the correct plug listed for that specific engine will come pre gapped according to what the manufacturer would want.

When working on modern vehicles that has sh!t loads of electronics, diagnostics is of more help than any manual. Re a vw, vcds is the best affordable tool available.

Just because the vehicle does not give fault codes does not mean that it doesn't have an issue. U need to understand how the system works to be able to diagnose via live data (measuring blocks on vcds).
It does not necessarily pin point the problem but it gives u a good direction.

If u have to compare manufacturers specs to each and every sensor in the vehicle, u gonna be in for a long ride my friend.

Again, if u need help in diagnosing whatever issues u may have, post here.
I don't believe that nobody will be able to help. That's the reason people read and join forums, to help and get helped.

Good luck.



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[maybeanothergolf]

If u don't have correct info, u need to work around it.
For example, plug gaps. Look for the OEM part number, for a cax it is, 03c905601a.
Google the part number, u will find OEM plugs with some technical info.
The gap should be 0.8mm.

However, as stated by NGK, u should avoid gapping precious metal electrodes (iridium / platinum) as the correct plug listed for that specific engine will come pre gapped according to what the manufacturer would want.

When working on modern vehicles that has sh!t loads of electronics, diagnostics is of more help than any manual. Re a vw, vcds is the best affordable tool available.

Just because the vehicle does not give fault codes does not mean that it doesn't have an issue. U need to understand how the system works to be able to diagnose via live data (measuring blocks on vcds).
It does not necessarily pin point the problem but it gives u a good direction.

If u have to compare manufacturers specs to each and every sensor in the vehicle, u gonna be in for a long ride my friend.

Again, if u need help in diagnosing whatever issues u may have, post here.
I don't believe that nobody will be able to help. That's the reason people read and join forums, to help and get helped.

Good luck.



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Thank you sir for putting things so clearly into words. I have been screwing around for the last week with building my own 'ye olde fashioned KKl 409.1' cable thing. I actually got my incredible redneck rig to pass the VCDS lite 'test' phase (I bought a VAG COM cable from takelaot, which came with the chinesium CH430 and LM339. I removed the CH430 and plumbed in a legit sparkfun FTDI usb to serial with some wires, spoeg en plak. I can now pass the VCDS-lite interace test, but can't go further.) (on a macbook... vmware fusion... windows arm64 insider preview...). The point of this exercise was to see whether I can take the chance to take the plunge and buy a 3-vin HEX-V2 from the crowd in somerset west.

Oddly, since I took out all the plugs, put them back and replaced the air filter and fuel filter things have improved. I'm waiting for payday to buy oil. At the risk of starting a new thing. Castrol edge 5W-40?
If anyone is interested I did a whole investigation around the OEM oil filter issue.

[maybeanothergolf]

If u don't have correct info, u need to work around it.
For example, plug gaps. Look for the OEM part number, for a cax it is, 03c905601a.
Google the part number, u will find OEM plugs with some technical info.
The gap should be 0.8mm.

However, as stated by NGK, u should avoid gapping precious metal electrodes (iridium / platinum) as the correct plug listed for that specific engine will come pre gapped according to what the manufacturer would want.

When working on modern vehicles that has sh!t loads of electronics, diagnostics is of more help than any manual. Re a vw, vcds is the best affordable tool available.

Just because the vehicle does not give fault codes does not mean that it doesn't have an issue. U need to understand how the system works to be able to diagnose via live data (measuring blocks on vcds).
It does not necessarily pin point the problem but it gives u a good direction.

If u have to compare manufacturers specs to each and every sensor in the vehicle, u gonna be in for a long ride my friend.

Again, if u need help in diagnosing whatever issues u may have, post here.
I don't believe that nobody will be able to help. That's the reason people read and join forums, to help and get helped.

Good luck.



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Just responding to the plug gap thing I luckily also saw that! I got the proper NGK plug number from their catalog. Now go try and buy these plugs... Goldwagen wants to give me Bosch something or even 'torch' brand. OR for the same part number the NGK Iridium part at ZAR Four Hundred and Somehting per plug. Went to my local friendly VAG dealer, quoted over R2k for four plugs.

From the NGK catalog:
NGK PZFR6R GOLF 6 1.4 TSI 1400 2008->2012 4 CAXA 0,8mm PZFR6R 5758 (the 5758 seems to be a NGK stock number)
These are platinum electrode plugs so and so, as far as I can see somewhere around 200 bucks a piece.

[Ashveer03]

Castrol causes sludge.

OEM VW Special G oil should have the required approval, it's a 5w40 costs about R550 at gw.

As for vcds, we are not allowed to suggest a knock off cable.
Prices increased quite abit since i have bought mine @ hex diagnostics.

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[maybeanothergolf]

Castrol causes sludge.

OEM VW Special G oil should have the required approval, it's a 5w40 costs about R550 at gw.

As for vcds, we are not allowed to suggest a knock off cable.
Prices increased quite abit since i have bought mine @ hex diagnostics.

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"Castrol causes sludge." Why does my oil cap say 'castrol' on it? To trick me into putting that into my car after 12 years of bleeding at VW dealerships, so it can finally all blow up and I can go buy something else - those sneaky bastards. I was also not asking for a knockoff cable, but for opinions on VCDS lite, which has nothing todo with knock off anything.

[maybeanothergolf]

I was also going to ask opinions around things like autel vs launch scantools instead of just the goto VCDS or nothing else. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this sort of thing.

[Ashveer03]

VW no longer uses Castrol.

Rumor has it the vw OEM engine oils are from shell & fuchs, even the containers look somewhat the same.

Iv seen the internals of engines that has only used Castrol, it's pathetic. Maybe all those cars were not maintained well, I don't know. Everyone has their own opinion to it, I would either use shell or liqui moly.


Launch and autel are universal tools, not vehicle specific. I see alot of basic launch and autel tools on the net, I doubt they are legit tools.
Proper licensed launch and autel gets expensive.

Vcds is vehicle specific to the VW group, so u get much more features out of it compared to a universal tool. And it makes data logging simple.

The other VW specific tool is obd11, I believe they aren't as user friendly as vcds.

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[maybeanothergolf]

VW no longer uses Castrol.

Rumor has it the vw OEM engine oils are from shell & fuchs, even the containers look somewhat the same.

Iv seen the internals of engines that has only used Castrol, it's pathetic. Maybe all those cars were not maintained well, I don't know. Everyone has their own opinion to it, I would either use shell or liqui moly.


Launch and autel are universal tools, not vehicle specific. I see alot of basic launch and autel tools on the net, I doubt they are legit tools.
Proper licensed launch and autel gets expensive.

Vcds is vehicle specific to the VW group, so u get much more features out of it compared to a universal tool. And it makes data logging simple.

The other VW specific tool is obd11, I believe they aren't as user friendly as vcds.

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Hmmm that is food for thought and well taken... Am I correct that your first recommendation would be to get the OG oil from VW and after that shell or liqui moly? Since I like to read and scratch around spec sheets and stuff can you point me to the shell and liqui moly direction?I did a whole thing at least and have the proper MANN earl filter.

I suppose there is no more denying I just need to caugh up for the damned cable from HEX. My only remaining doubt is I would be running it from my macbook, via VMware fusion with windows for ARM64 insider preview. (Which by the way with VCDS lite did manage to see my homebrew FTDI based KKl magical cable hack job but my poor car wouldn't communicate so I left it at that. I have no problems making computers do my bidding whilst everything else is a total mystery.)

Edit: Since I haven't posted much at all here I thought I had to say something more about my philosophy : I do not skimp on tires, brake bits and with your help on oil either.

[Ashveer03]

I'm not sure exactly what spec oil your engine asks for, most VW petrol engines ask for 502.00 or 505.00

If it's 502/505.00 u can use VW Special G oil - goldwagen sell these.
If u want to use shell, hx8 or ultra 5w40 carries the same 502/505.00 approval
If u want liqui moly - they have alot of oils with the 502/505.00 approval.

Whatever u do choose, u would want to continue using the same brand all the time.


The OEM vw oil is cheaper than shell and liqui moly.
Personally, if I cannot get OEM oil for some reason then I would use shell. Liqui Moly is the last option since it's the most expensive, and I do 10k kms / 12month intervals irrespective of the oil used - hence it's not so pocket friendly.

But when it comes to other oils such as gear oils, diff oils, hydraulic oils etc, I prefer liqui moly, again, it's vehicle dependant.

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